LIPSTICK JOURNEY

          Lipstick is a crayon-like cosmetic used to spread colour on lips,usually in a tubular container. It contains pigments, oils,waxes and emollients that form a colour, texture and protection to the lips. There are variety of colours and types of lipsticks; some are lip balms,lip gloss to add colour, hydrate and keep moist.

          If we fetch our eyes,humans have been using cosmetics from prehistoric times to distinguish themselves among others. As hunters painted their skin to better blend in their surroundings, priests and acolytes decorated themselves to honor their gods and beliefs, and young people used imaginable to make them more pretty and presentable to the opposite sex. From prehistoric to modern makeup,it is interesting to note that though the products and techniques have gone through stages of enormous advancements but fundamentals of makeup still remain the same. This is particularly true in the case of lipstick which was made from natural sources to today’s mind-numbing variety;the metamorphosis of lipstick over time is an interesting tail,which must be delivered to next generations:

HISTORY OF LIPSTICK

          In ancient civilization,makeup was a status symbol and both men and women (gender-less) indulged in applying cosmetics. Apart from aesthetics,makeup also had medicinal appeal. The story begins 5000 years ago,when people from Sumerian Civilization were credited as the earliest users of lipsticks. The stain was naturally occurring substances like fruits, henna, clay rust and of course insects. Mesopotamian women were a little on the fancier side and used ground precious jewels to add colours and shimmer to their lips.

            Egyptians,perhaps,were the first real lipstick lovers. Striking shades,like purple and black were in common. They derived colours from some rather interesting sources such as carmine dye that was derived from grounded cochineal insects. Cleopatra use to crush bugs (carmine) to create a colour red. Infect,carmine dye is still used in lipsticks and other products. However,Egyptians used harmful substance like lead and a mixture bromine man-nite and iodine which may result in serious diseases or even death.

             Women in Indus Valley Civilization may have used rectangular pieces of ochre with beveled ends as lipstick.

       Women in Minoan civilization coloured their lips with bright red cosmetics. In Japan women wore thick makeup and dark lipsticks derived from tar and beeswax.

     It was only in Greek Empire, application of lipstick was associated with prostitution and prostitutes were under obligation to wear dark lips,by Law. But later in upper class it expanded between 700 and 300 BCE. Greek women coloured their lips with cosmetics made of dyes containing Tyrian purple, crushed mulberries and the toxic pigment Vermilion.

         Chinese made some of the first lipsticks that were made from beeswax over 1000 years ago to protect the delicate skin of the lips. During the Tang Dynasty (618-970 CE),scented oils were added to them,which gave the mouth an enticing factor.In Australia, Aboriginal girls would paint their lips with ochre for puberty rituals.

       Some were in 9 AD, an Arab scientist,Abulcasis invented the solid lipstick. He initially made stock for applying perfume which could then be pressed into a mold. He tried the same method with colours and invented solid lipstick.

LIPSTICK USED AT MIDDLE AGE

            With the advent of Christianity and puritanical beliefs,the church condemned the use of lipsticks or any makeup  because of that matter,red lips were associated with Satan worship and women sporting lipsticks were suspected of being sorcerers and witches. Apart from prostitutes,no self-respecting women sported coloured lips. Lip salves, however,were popular and acceptable. Women thus secretly added colour to salves or resorted to pinching,biting or rubbing lips with various materials to make them appear redder.

QUEEN ELIZABETH IN 16^TH CENTURY

        The lipstick re-appeared during Queen Elizabeth’s reign in England. She popularized pale white skin and red lips but even the availability was restricted to noble gents and ladies or actors and actresses who appeared on the stage. Till about three centuries there after lipstick remained accessible to actors and prostitutes.

1884 AD

          A French perfume company named Guerlain became the first company to produce lipstick commercially. Their lipstick was made with deer tallow,beeswax and castor oil which were then wrapped in a silk paper.

1915's

          Lipsticks in cylindrical containers were invented by Maurice Levy.

1920's

                By 1920,lipstick had made a permanent place in the daily lives of women. In 1923.James Bruce Mason Jr. made the swivel up tube and gave us modern lipstick as we know it today.The fashion icons of the day were the salient era movie stars and people re-created their dark lips. Plums,aubergines,cherries,dark reds and browns were the most sought after colours in this era. It was inexpensive and mass produced. Magazines encouraged women to wear stylish colours and women diligently abided.

         Helens Rubenstein invented the Cupid’s bow lipstick that promised to give the coveted shape to the lips. Women also used stencils to achieve the desired Cupid’s bow shape of the lips.

          It was also in 1920's that the first wave of feminism came and women demanded more rights including the right to vote. Lipsticks at that time were actually considered a symbol of feminism.

          It was also during this era that French Chemist Paul Baudercroux invented lipstick Rouge Baiser which was supposed to be ‘kiss-proof’ but was quickly taken off the shelf as women found it difficult to get rid of. Companies like Chanel, Guerlain, Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder, started selling lipsticks.

1930's

          The love for lipstick was not deterred by the depression of the era. A survey revealed that 50% of teenage girls fought over lipstick with their parents. After the jazz baby era of 1920's,1930's was all about elegant and matte finishes. Max Factor started selling lip glosses and became a huge hit among the masses as earlier it was only reserved for Hollywood actresses. Hit by the depression, lipstick was an affordable luxury for the women in this era. Deep plum and burgundy were some of the preferred shades of this era.

1940's

          Going through the perils of the Second World War,women in the 1940's took to laborious jobs with men at war frontiers. The supplies of all materials were scarce and as for lipsticks,the metal tubes were temporarily replaced with plastic and paper. Due to the lack of material,makeup in this era was creative and breezy. Women were actually encouraged to wear reddest of the lips to boast the morale during the grim time of the war. Besame’s American Beauty was one of the most popular shades of red.

1950's

         This was the era when Hollywood glam icons such as Grace Kelly,Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor were setting the trends all over the world. Women wanted to look like their favorite Hollywood actresses and lipstick was popular than ever. Bold red lips were especially popularized by Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor and women in 1950s embraced the trend. Estee Lauder’s Envious was one of the popular shades. A survey in 1950s claimed that 60% teenage girls wore lipsticks.

         In 1952,Queen Elizabeth II created her own shade during her coronation. The shade was customized by Queens’s favorite brand Clarin’s and called the ‘THE BALMORAL’. The colour matched her coronation robe.

         It was also during this era;Hazel Bishop successfully came up with a ‘kiss-proof’ lipstick. Soon enough, ’Revlon’ came up with their own range of smudge proof lipsticks and then began the war of brands started.

1960s-1970's

          Lipstick drew inspiration from art and popular culture and a variety of shades came and went from the fashion scene. There was something to suit everybody’s preference, ‘Lip Smackers’ that was lipstick with flavors. These became an instant hit with the younger crowd. Aerin’s Rose Balm Lipstick in Pretty and corals like Mabelline’s orange danger were some of the iconic of the era.

1980's

        Lipstick in 1980's,was much like everything,all about shimmers and gloss. The concept of power dressing came into being and bold lips were a statement once again. Matching your lip colour with your outfits was common and in vogue. Hot pink lips became all the rage keeping up with dance party culture of the era. Goth lips were popular in same alternative sub cultures.

1990's

          This was the era of grunge and makeup was simple. People were getting more and more conscious about environment and demand for chemical free, natural formulas for lipstick grew. Tattooed or getting semi-permanent colour on the lip was getting popular but if 90's is remembered, as the era of lip liners. Nothing screams the 1990's more than darker lip liners with a lighter lipstick. Brands such as Mac and Urban Decay came in to the scene.

2000 On-ward's

          The 2000's was all about Britney Spears,Christina Aguilera and Paris Hilton. Shine was in and lip glosses were the favorite accessories once again. Now variety of colours, formulas and shells of lipsticks available are mind-blowing. In recent years the youngest of Kardashian-Jenner Clan and social media sensation Kylie Jenner launched her line of lipsticks, was perhaps another milestone in the history of lipsticks.

           From nude to pink to every whackier option like yellow or green, lipstick has truly become a symbol of self-expression.

          So the next time you open your purse and look at the tube of lipstick, just think about the amazing journey it has been through. Lipstick has come through a long way from grounded stones and dead insects to super advance formulas that we have today, there is one thing that remain constant,that is, lipstick has the ability to change our look,shift our mood,give us confidence and colour us happy.